After reading your review of the Microlux table saw I ordered one up.
It arrived today and my initial impression is favorable. It only took
some minor tweaking to square up the blade and micro adjustable fence.
Thanks for bringing this quality piece of machinery to my attention.
It seems there
is not a lot of choices in blades for this saw. I have looked around online and
around town without any results. Besides of course MicroMark. I have found a
couple of 3-3/8 blades intended for the cordless saws, however they all have 15
I will mostly be cutting balsa and plywood for R/C aircraft construction,
and while the provided 80 tooth blade cuts balsa cleanly, it tends to wander a
bit on spruce and thick plywood. Have you found this to be the case? This
blade also has a significant whine, which I have always equated with internal
stress, at least with larger blades.
The carbide blade offering is much thicker, but at the price of a much
thicker kerf. Have you used this blade? Have you found another source of
blades appropriate for this saw?
You mentioned not being able to mount an auxiliary fence for ripping
stock. Have you tried using one of those T sander extrusions with the fence
provided with the saw? You would have to trim down one side of the T, and drill
and tap holes in the top of the fence. I have seen those sanders in two foot
lengths and they may be available much longer. That should give you the needed
length to your fence.
Also, could the bowing you encountered be the result of stress in the
stock? I have dealt with this with larger stock while building various projects
around the house.
Before I answer these question I need to make
it clear that the
Microlux table saw is the only table saw I have ever owned
or operated. In other words I do not know a lot about table saws.
However, I have had very good success overall with this saw which is about as
good of an endorsement as I can give it. It is easy to use and does a
I purchased all the blades I use for my
Microlux saw from MicroMark at the same time that I purchased the saw. I
have not looked for blades through other sources and am not aware of any where
else they can be purchased. However, the accessory blades sold by
MicroMark are made by Globus and require an arbor adapter. The saw has a
10 mm arbor and the accessory blades require a 1/2" arbor. If you search
for this brand you may find other outlets for the blades. The adapter
can be purchased from MicroMark for about $5.00.
The adapter appears to be something that could
be machined easily. It is basically the same as the washer that holds
the blade in place with a thin lip to fill the gap between the blade and the
arbor. If you can make an adapter and find blades that are close to the
right size I think you would be in business.
These are the blades I own in addition to the
stock blade. They are listed in order of how much use they get with the
first blade being used about 99% of the time.
3" x .045" x 168 tooth
3" x .032" x 168 t
3" x .025" x 225 t
3" x .020" x 225 t
I have had no problems with significant
splintering using any of these blades. I do not recall ever using the
stock blade because it just did not look like it would cut cleanly. The
above listed blades cut so cleanly that little or no sanding is required.
I now have the Carbide tooth blade sold by
MicroMark. Wow! What a wonderful blade! It can easily cut
through 3/4" rock maple motor mount stock which really surprised me. It
does have a fairly large kerf compared to the other blades, but it is a small
price to pay for being able to cut thicker wood with the saw. This blade
will splinter plywood when the blade exits during a cross-cut. However,
if the piece is moved slowly enough, it can be kept to a minimum.
I have not noticed any blade whining. I keep the
saw on it is lowest speed for the most part. What I have noticed is the
thinnest blades (.025" and .020") will begin a nerve shattering oscillation if
the stock is not push through perfectly straight and the saw is running at a
high speed. Once it starts the only way to stop it is to shut off the
When I say there is a problem with bowing, what
I mean is that if I feed a 3" wide sheet through and cut off a 1/4" stick, the
remainder of the 3" wide sheet bows. I know this for a fact because I have trued
the edge of these sheets several times and it continues to be a problem, so I
doubt it is from internal stress. If the stick bowed, but the edge of the sheet
remained straight then I would assume internal stress. I think a longer
fence will correct the problem.
What I have done is taken a long piece of
extrusion (aluminum molding) and clamp it to the saw using needle nose spring
clamps. I can get four clamps on it, but it is not super secure so I have to be
careful not to bump it. Once I get it set up I cut a bunch of sticks so
I will not have to do it again any time soon.
Your suggestion of bolting a piece of extrusion
to the stock fence sounds excellent and I think it may resolve the problem.
Thanks for that tip! After I get something set up I will post the results
on the Power Tools page.