I like to cut a former
that splits the radio compartment into two parts. The aft section is the
servo compartment and the forward section is the
Measure the length of the battery and receiver. Add 1" to the longer
measurement and that is how far back from the LE the new former should go.
You want enough room to surround the receiver and battery pack with foam
without it being able to shift around.
switch and the
charge jack in the servo compartment so the wires
coming from them do not have the receiver or battery pushed up against them.
Be sure to cut a 1/2" or larger hole in the former to pass the servo leads to
the receiver and also drill a hole for the throttle
In the above image, the charge jack is mounted in the wrong compartment due to
poor planning on my part. It is in the way and I have to be careful not
to stress the wires too much when working around it. A wire can break
causing intermittent contact and result in bad things happening to my model.
Unfortunately in this case there wasn't a lot of room in the servo compartment
to mount the jack. In retrospect, the former could have been moved
slightly forward to make the servo compartment larger.
Now I do the servo installation before I even begin framing up the
fuselage. It seems tedious, but the actual fact is I save a lot of
time by doing it in the beginning. There are a couple measurements
you need to have.
First, I put the grommets and eyelets in the
servos and then I measure from the bottom of the grommet to the center of
servo arm (servo in side view). This tells me where the servo rails
need to be from the pushrods. Now it is an easy task to glue rails
into the fuselage sides before I join them and also cut the pushrod exits.
The only other measurement I need is how from
the tail the pushrod exit should be. Just draw a line on the plan
from where the servo will be mounted (you will need to know what servo arm
you are going to use) to the control horn. The hole goes where the
line intersects the fuselage side.