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      Interior cut outs should always have radiused 
      corners.  They look better and are stronger than sharp corners.  I use a 1/2" sanding 
      drum on a Dremel to make the corners. 
      First mark the center of the corners and drill 
      a hole smaller than the finished radius.  I normally use a 3/8" bit 
      in a drill press to get started. 
      Next, use a hobby knife, scroll saw or 
      jeweler's saw to finish the cut-out. 
      Finally sand the inside to smooth it out 
      and use a Dremel or a dowel with sandpaper wrapped around it to finish the 
      corner. 
      Here I am showing my anal-retentive nature 
      by using a sanding drum on my Dremel in my
      router table to clean up the inside cut-out. 
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        The front face of the 
        firewall.  It has 
        been drilled for the 
        engine mount, fuel lines and 
        throttle linkage.  
        This aircraft will have a
        tail wheel so there is no 
        nose gear mount. 
        Notice that the 
        fuel line holes have been 
        chamfered using a counter-sink to soften the edge and help prevent the 
        plywood from cutting the fuel line.  | 
      
      
        
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        The rear face of the firewall.  Again, 
        notice the chamfered fuel line holes. 
        Also note that the holes for the engine mount 
        screws have been enlarged slightly on the rear face to receive the blind 
        nuts.  | 
      
      
        
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         The blind nuts have been 
        tapped in place with a small hammer.  The smaller blind nut is made 
        by a different manufacturer but they all have the same thread (6-32). 
        I used a small blind nut so 
        that I would not have to grind away part of the flange to prevent it 
        from blocking the fuel line holes.  However, if you run into this 
        problem you can grind away part of the flange with a Dremel.  The 
        blind nut will still be strong enough. 
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        It is easy to make a perfect nose ring.  
        Start by selecting a piece of plywood of appropriate thickness.  
        Draw the centerlines and the outer diameter of the 
        spinner. 
        The diameter of the nose ring should be 
        slightly larger than that of the spinner assuming the fuselage tapers 
        normally.  Add about 1/32" to the radius of the spinner before 
        drawing the circle. 
        The inner circle only needs to be large 
        enough to pass the thrust washer with a little margin for error.  | 
      
      
        
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        Drill a 1/8" hole in the center of the 
        former. | 
      
      
        
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        Trim off most of the excess using whatever 
        method you like.  Leave enough material so the former can be sanded 
        to final shape. | 
      
      
        
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        If you have a drill or a drill press you can 
        make final shaping really easy. Thread a 6-32 bolt through the former with a washer on each side.  
        Thread a hex nut on and tighten it securely. 
        Do not chuck this assembly into your 
        moto-tool unless you want to learn how cheap the bearings in these tools 
        really are.  They will not last long with an unbalanced load such as 
        this.  | 
      
      
        
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        Chuck the assembly in your drill or drill 
        press.  Use a sanding block to take the former down to the line.  
        Notice that the bolt is threaded through so the lines are visible. 
        Do not continuously press the block against 
        the former.  Instead, push the block up to the former until it just 
        touches.  Then hold the block still until the high spots are 
        knocked off.  Keep doing this until the former is to the line. 
        Turn off the drill and check the spinner 
        backplate against the former.  Keep sanding until they match well. 
        You can also sand a slight taper into the 
        former by tilting the block so that the former matches the taper of the 
        fuselage.  | 
      
      
        
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        I leave the ring slightly over-size so I 
        can finish sand it after it is glued on the fuselage.  Here you can 
        see that the former is a hair  larger than the spinner backplate. | 
      
      
        
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        Cut out the inside of the nose ring when you are satisfied that the outside edge 
        is correct. | 
      
      
        
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        The complete set of formers from the nose rearward shown in order from 
        left to right, top to bottom. 
        The center former in the bottom row goes in 
        the center of the radio compartment.  The cut-out at the bottom is 
        to pass wires from the 
        servo compartment to the 
        receiver/battery 
        compartment. 
        Note the former at the bottom left.  This former is located at the 
        leading edge of the wing.  The holes for the wing dowels are 
        already drilled to simplify
        mounting the wing. 
        Note that the dowel holes are as far apart as possible.  The 
        farther apart these holes are, the more stable the wing mount will be.  |