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April 02, 2024



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Magnetic Model Aircraft Fixture System II.I

Magnetic Fixture System II

Contact me to purchase Magnetic Fixture Systems

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Airfield Models (http://www.airfieldmodels.com/)About Magnetic Fixture System II

News About My Magnetic Fixture System (Pricing and Availability)

Magnetic Fixture System II is the culmination of many years experience producing and personally using magnetic fixtures while taking in feedback from model-builders all over the world who build a wide range of model aircraft.

A number of precision production jigs ensures all system components fit together well and that parts are interchangeable.

The result is a tool set that will help you build very accurate model aircraft.  The system is adaptable and a lot of fun to work with.

Your imagination and skill are the only things more important than your fundamental building system.  I understand that my system is a significant investment.  I don't take short-cuts and I don't use cheap materials.  I never ever want to be fairly accused of selling a poorly made product and I do everything I can to make sure that never happens.

All stock sets fall within a discounted range so will be less than the price listed when you check out.

View/Download Current Price List (PriceList.pdf)

 

 

 

Magnetic Fixture System

If this is your first time here then I suggest reading the rest of this page to learn more about it first.

 
 

The System

Comparative Size of 90° Magnetic Fixtures

Large View

Magnetic Fixtures

All fixtures are made of very high quality birch plywood using steel-pole ceramic magnets for a secure hold to your steel building board.

  • Fixtures include all magnets and magnet-mounting hardware.

  • A repeating mounting-hole pattern on all fixtures allows the attachment of a variety of accessories such as Vertical Presses, Face Clamps, Extensions or shop-made items.

  • Multiple items can be mounted to a fixture.

  • Fixture Sets

Vertical Presses

Vertical presses are made from high quality hardwood.

  • Vertical Presses include steel thumbscrew, mounting hardware and hardwood clamp pad.

  • Presses are shaped, drilled and tapped.

  • Vertical Presses provide plenty of thread to lessen play in the press bolt and prevent stripping.

  • Presses are attached with black oxide hardware that looks good with any finish.

  • Vertical Presses and Clamp Pads are made from a variety of quality hardwoods such as maple, cherry and walnut.  Presses and Clamp Pads included in sets are always from the same wood.  E.g.  Your set may contain all cherry, all maple, all walnut or all other species of wood pieces.

  • Vertical Presses and Accessories

Face Clamps

Face Clamps are made from hard maple.  They secure assemblies to the face of a fixture when the assembly isn't being very cooperative.

  • Face Clamps include mounting hardware, steel Allen head bolts, steel blind nuts, brass tube bars and nylon locking screw.

  • All parts are shaped and drilled even the holes for the blind nut prongs to eliminate any chance of the clamp heads splitting.

  • Face Clamps mount on either side of any fixture at any mounting location.

 
 

Steel Building Boards

I do not sell building boards.  In order for me to ensure you receive the board in undamaged condition I would need to sandwich it between sheets of plywood.  The cost of that and shipping would be multitudes higher than purchasing the board locally.  If you really want me to ship a board then I will but you will probably pay several hundred dollars for a $50.00 piece of sheet metal.

 
 

Finishing Information

These are kits that require finish sanding, finishing and assembly before use. No cutting or drilling is required.  My fixture sets are a solid investment that will last more than a lifetime if they are properly finished and cared for.  Almost any finish can be applied. I like Deft Satin Brushing Lacquer for furniture but you can also use latex, enamel, polyurethane, Danish oil, any rattle can paint or other finish that will work on wood which is just about everything available.  The fact is I don't know of any finish that can't be used on wood.

I do not recommend water-based finishes however.  I'm saying that having never used any so it's entirely possible I don't know what I'm talking about.  I just wouldn't tempt fate because it's not hard to warp plywood.  If you do use a water-based finish I would apply each coat to the entire fixture rather than coating one side and letting it dry before coating the other side.  You can either run a wire through one of the holes, use painters pyramids or make a board with screws driven up through it to rest the fixture on while it dries.  I made a set of these and they're nice to have around.  You'll just need to make them smaller.

Once the fixtures are finished they are stable and won't warp.

The included fixture set instructions also detail my technique for applying a furniture lacquer finish.

I have recently discovered a finish I like even better than lacquer for use on hardwood pieces.  It is the simplest thing imaginable to apply, looks extremely good and is non-toxic.  It is a wipe-on finish made of linseed oil and beeswax called Tried & True Original Wood Finish.  The finish feels "waxed" all the time.

I purchased mine from Lee Valley Tools but it is available from other places.  It's pricey but a little goes a long way.  One pint of it can easily finish any fixture set listed here several times over.

You might not like it on the plywood fixtures.  On hardwood the finish soaks very deep into the wood.  Because plywood is cross-grain every other lamination with a glue layer in between the oil doesn't soak in evenly.  It tends to darken edges of the outer lamination end grain. The other thing it does is run along the grain between holes in the fixtures leaving dark streaks along the line of drilled holes.

Some people will like that look and others won't.  If you really care then you should get a scrap piece of plywood, drill a few holes in it, finish sand it then apply the finish.  Wait a few days before you decide.  The edges will continue to change color while the oil cures so you may even want to wait a couple weeks before you decide if you'll like that look.

 
 

Other uses for Magnetic Fixtures

Trusswork

SR Batteries 1/4 scale Fokker Eindecker under construction.

The longerons are 3/8" square spruce.  My magnetic fixtures held things firmly in place without breaking a sweat.

The board shown is approximately 3/64" thick x 24" wide x 72" long.  It cost about $30.00 in 2003.

Magnetic fixtures are also suitable for building pieces that are best clamped horizontally or vertically such as small boxes, doll house furniture, rolling stock, miniatures, etc.

This is where I have to leave you to determine if these tools are appropriate to help you create your works of art.

Note to Micro Builders

My fixtures are not the right tool for small stick models the magnetic force is too strong.  If you build rubber power or park-flyer size models then you can use loose, rectangular, ceramic magnets.  They are square and have the correct strength even to bend and hold fuselage sides.

3/8" x 7/8" x 1-7/8" ceramic magnets are stronger than ceramic latch magnets having the steel plates removed.  They are not nearly as beefy as a four or six-magnet fixture.  These larger ceramic magnets can stand on end with enough force to stay square while gluing formers between fuselage sides of small flying models.

I seldom use metal plates on loose magnets when the magnet will be against the model because the plates can dent the wood and they make the magnet much stronger than necessary in most cases.  My advice is try building with loose magnets first and try lighter duty fixtures if you need more concentrated force.

 
 

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