Airfield Models - Visitor Comments

Setting Up, Operating and Maintaining Model Airplane Engines

November 08, 2007

What's New
Models Gallery
Model Building Safety
Building Service
Mail & FAQ
Site Map
Site Feedback
Add to Favorites
Design and Build Contest
Items For Sale
Search Airfield Models

Back to Setting Up, Operating and Maintaining Model Airplane Engines


  Airfield Models ( page contains comments from visitors to Airfield Models regarding the article Setting Up, Operating and Maintaining Model Airplane Engines.

Share your comments regarding the Setting Up, Operating and Maintaining Model Airplane Engines article.

If you would like to provide general feedback about the Airfield Models website, please use the Site Feedback page.

This page has 6 comments.

Ontario, Canada
Posted:February 15th, 2012
6.39 PM
Regarding exhaust deflectors I loved them when I used to run glo. I used the retaining system you show and never lost one except when the ty-rap rotted away from UV. You have to experiemnt a bit with the direction that works the best since the prop-wash swirl affects where the mess lands but with a few test flights you can reduce by 50% or more the mess.
 Fuel Dinosaur
Posted:January 31st, 2007
10.41 AM
Some fuels in terms of castor content include Cool Power green, Wildcat, PowerMaster and SIG, ranging from 0% castor in Cool Power to 10% castor in SIG Champion, 20% oil total, of which the other 10% is KL-200 ( If you look at older ads, Cool Power was recommended for RINGED engines, later the ads said ABN and ABC I believe, and now, there is no reference to recommended engine type for a 17% all synthetic oil. Also, somehow, FAI fuel at least in one manufacturer is now 17% castor instead of the 80/20, which for the older guys, used to be 75/25. There are differences in model fuels and a good choice is sometimes harder to make as the oils decrease in concentration, with little real improvement in the oils. Folks are still largely using Klotz KL-200, KL-100, UCON and a few other oils for manufacture. I think there has been some good advertising, and a lot of heat, but not a lot of light shed on the evolution of our model fuels. On rusting of the lower bearings on the 4-strokes, consider adding 2-4% castor to a total 18% oil fuel for your Saitos and other 4-strokes and put some Marvel Air Tool oil in the engine if you put it up for awhile. Just a few reflections from an old rat race, combat and RC pilot.

Posted:January 16th, 2007
2.05 AM
Hey.. i am new to the r/c world and am wondering how to start my engine. I picked up an old enya 15-III off my dads m8 from work. I bought the glow igniter a fuel tank and everything that i need to start it but it still wont start. i have done what you said about closing off the pin all the way then open it up 2 - 3 turns. i then pushed the igniter on and gave it a few flips but nothing happens. The fuel is getting ito the carb and there is compression in the cylinder. I was wondering if the throttle is the lever that lets more air into the carby? and in your article you said the close of the carby with ur finger. close off what? the opeing where the air gets in that is adjusted by the lever??. i just dont no.
Posted:December 29th, 2005
4.50 PM
A good friend showed me that using a straight section of rigid tubing used between the stopper and the clunk will prevent the clunk from getting wedged in the forward position of the tank after a nose-over or abrupt stop of your forward progress, like hitting the really tall grass on the edge of the runway. Don't ask how I know this... Use short sections of silicone on both ends, just make the upper section long enough for the slight pivoting needed for the clunk.
St Louis MO
Posted:October 7th, 2005
5.37 AM
I just thought I'd share that the Marvel Product that works better as after-run oil is Marvel Air Tool Oil. Marvel Air Tool Oil is meant to protect air motors and bearings from moisture-laden compressed air, and contains much more anti-oxidants and rust inhibitors than Marvel Mystery Oil. Of course auto tranny fluid works too.
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Posted:May 16th, 2004
10.08 PM
Regarding tightening prop nuts - On my very first engine, I cranked the prop nut good and tight using a "crescent" wrench. Unfortunately, I OVERTIGHTENED it, compressing the prop back plate onto the conical brass sleeve that sits just in front of the forward bearing. This brought the back of the prop plate into contact with the front of the crankcase, jamming the engine so it wouldn't run.

So, just a warning - Paul is right about tightening the prop nut but too much is just as bad as too little.

Airfield Models Home


Copyright 2004 Paul K. Johnson